"How To" - Carolina Chip

May 2005
 

Install A Fish Finder On A Minnkota PowerTroll Motor

  

Before getting started, we must point out that this article is only written to inform the "do it yourselfer" of one way a a sonar was installed. The reader should follow all manufacturers recommendations, practice safety, and never perform electrical wiring or drilling into a boat unless they are experienced. The author assumes no responsibility for readers installations.

______________________________________________________________________

I recently decided to install a fish finder on the casting deck of my boat, a 2004 - 17 foot Tracker Targa. I had Purchased a 55 lb thrust Minnkota PowerDrive®  with the boat.

My choice for the fish finder was an Eagle 320 from Bass Pro Shops . With such a large selection, it was a pleasure dealing with a sales person who was very knowledgeable of all the underwater sonars offered.

Step One: Securely attach the transducer to the trolling motor with a manufactured transducer mount. You can see in this photo that after the transducer was installed, pull ties were used to route the cable around the side to the top. From there, a small hole was drilled in the top gusset of the trolling motor. A pull tie was inserted to secure the cable before it makes its way up the shaft.

The instruction noted that a fish finder should be installed at the transducer and then work your way back to the display. This prevents running short of cable before making it to the most important mount of the installation: THE TRANSDUCER!

 

 

 

Another Photo Of The Same Step.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Two: I then ran the transducer cable up the shaft. I secured it with a piece of Velcro strap that is permanently affixed to the cable, but allows removal from the shaft. This is important on the PowerTroll motor because the shaft must slide through the steering motor on deployment.

 

The Velcro is available at ACE Hardware. It is not required, but make a neater installation.

 

 

 

 

Step Three: After running the cable up the shaft, I then twist tie it at a few locations allowing allowing a relief loop. This loop protects the cable in the event the it is stressed by over turning the motor.

 

Step Four: You can see in the frame left, that I then ran the cable through the wire coil that is part of the Trolling Motor assembly.

 

 

 

 

 

Here, I continue to thread the long cable through wire coil. I am working my way back to the trolling motor base to further camouflage the cable.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Five: I have removed the cowling from my Minnkota PowerTroll and routed the cable under the aluminum base, back out and down the side. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Six: The transducer cable is looped under the nose of the boat, secured with a cable clamp, and inserted through a bow opening.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Seven: Here, the cowling is placed back on the Minnkota.  The cable enters and exits neatly through the device, loops under and enters the boat. The wide loop was intentionally formed to provide relief if the cable is pulled taught for any reason.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Eight: I pulled the front main power panel out and placed the Eagle 320 close to the location that I want to mount it.

Don't be afraid of a jumble of wires!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Nine: In my thumb, you can see the two main power wires for the sonar unit. In my fingers, you can see I was fortunate enough to locate a 12 volt harness that was most likely installed at the factory for such an installation.

I am sure the rigger would have enjoyed me paying him to install this unit!

 

 

 

 

 

Step Ten: I am verifying my voltage with a volt meter.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NOTE: If you are not lucky enough to have an empty wire harness, search for other voltage sources. Its much easier than wiring your device all the way back to the battery.

Make sure if you tie into another devices power:

1. The fuse can take the load;

2. You don't get interference on your sonar or the device you are tying in to.

The manufacturer typically recommends wiring back to an open fuse block or the onboard battery.

 

 

 

Step Eleven: I purchased a RAM mount to have secure and full maneuverability of the device. RAM make a variety of different mounts for about anything you want to secure to your boat or car.

I selected a spot where I wanted the device, but NOTE! :

KNOW WHERE YOUR HULL WALL IS SO THAT YOU DO NOT DRILL THROUGH IT! MEASURE AND RE-MEASURE before securing the mount with stainless steel screws.

 

 

 

Step Twelve: The RAM ball mount is installed and the transducer cable plug has been pulled through where it will connect to the main device.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Step Thirteen:  IN POSITION! The unit is plugged in and in place.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Fourteen: I am now soldering on inline fuses and a slightly larger gauge wire to make my electrical connection.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Fifteen: Crimping On Wire Connectors....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Sixteen: Heat Shrinking The Connectors To The Wire....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Step Seventeen: All wires are plugged in, secures to the hull with pull ties. I am ready to place the electrical panel back in place and clean up the mess!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Two hours, a couple Cokes, and a vacuum job later..... I am now ready to take her to the water and start catching more fish! ......Well, at least I can now see them...... even if I still cant catch them!  Oh...I will catch them!

Thanks for reading!
 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for reading if you have a comment feel free to email me at Chip@CarolinaChip.Com

Thanks Art Ferguson, Scott Dobson and Joel St. Germain For Advise On The Fish Finder Selection.

GODS BLESSINGS ON AND OFF THE WATER. Be a Fisher of Fish and Men as well!

All Rights Reserved. 2005 Carolina Chip's Lure Company

 

Home